Release the thumbholes first. If the cuffs or shoulders are already uncomfortable, you have learned something before using the feature: the basic sleeve or shoulder fit needs attention. Do not pull harder on the opening to make it reach.
Find the point where tension appears
- Shirt alone, thumbs free: make your ordinary reaching movement. Note whether a cuff rides up or the shoulder binds.
- Shirt alone, thumbholes engaged: repeat gently. Stop if the wrist bends awkwardly or the shoulder is pulled down.
- Intended outer layer added: repeat without changing the fit underneath. If tension begins only now, inspect the layer interaction rather than blaming sleeve length immediately.
Use the result, not a blanket size-up rule
Tension before engaging the holes
Try another size or cut for the underlying sleeve/shoulder fit.
Tension only with thumbs engaged
The reach to the opening may not suit your arms, even if an ordinary cuff is comfortable.
Tension only after layering
Check whether the outer garment restricts movement or pulls the shirt underneath.
Patrick praises sleeve retention in the Elevation reports, but Allen describes a size-up tradeoff between chest room and excess length. In the Hunter fleece reports, short reach and a grabby grid appear separately. Those observations explain why the sequence matters; they do not prescribe a single corrective size.
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